Home
Why Build it Myself?
Small house plans
Plan your home
Blueprints
Blueprint Symbols
House Ebook Special
Foundations
Subfloors
House Framing
Plywood
Stair Construction
Windows and Doors
Plumbing
Electrical Wiring
Insulation
Heating
Network Wiring
Vinyl Siding
Roofing
Drywall
Trim carpentry
Water Wells
Septic System
Flooring
Bathrooms
Kitchens
Home lighting
Low cost house
Landscaping
House Floor Plan
Women and Building
Building Permits
Low Income housing
Remodeling
Fun Interior Designs
My house pics
Our  Building Story
Friendly links
Legal Contracts
My Newsletter
Affordable plans
Barn house plan
About Contractors
Tools Needed
Be your contractor
Sitemap
Housebuilders Blog
Asbestos Hazards
Building Departments
Fun Log Cabin Plans
Contractor Directory
Loan plans
How to Refinance
Electrical formulas
Mortgage Calculator
Gov mortgage help
About Me
Contact Me
Housing crisis
Privacy policy
Articles
 

Water-well

Any person that wants to install their own water-well has my total respect. Because of the lack of equipment, this is one of those projects you should leave to the professionals.

You can save between $1,000 and about $5,000 by digging the waterline, pump cable line, and doing the inside electrical and plumbing work.

Here's how to do it.



water well



Yeah, I know, my drawing is a mess. If you stare at it long enough, you'll see how it goes. A water-well is a little complicated.

When I describe well systems, I like to start at the pump which is really starting backwards. When I describe Electrical systems, I start at the breaker box.

I'll do it right. Let's start at the breaker box. A 30-amp, 240-volt breaker is perfect for most residential pumps. You can use 10-2 Romex from the breaker to the pressure switch. It will need both white and black wires as hot lines. Each carrying 120-volts.

pressure switch wiring



Could this picture be any fuzzier?

Anyway, the pressure switch is usually a 40-60 switch. That means when the pressure drops to around 40 lbs psi, the pump engages, and when the pressure reaches 60 lbs psi, the pumps shuts off.

The pressure tank is what keeps the waterlines pressurized so the pump doesn't run all the time.

You can use 10-2 Romex from the pressure switch to the control box.

well pump



From the control box, you will need to use special pump wire. It will need to be buried in the ground clear to the well casing. The pump cable will enter the well casing at the cable opening.

The friendly well drillers can connect the wires to the pump because they have the right equipment. The wires will go to the pump which is submersed all the time. Water-well pumps are very durable.

well casing



Now from the pump is the waterline. it goes up the well casing until it reaches the pitless adaptor. The pitless adaptor is usually at least 6 feet underground. It's just where the waterline exits the well casing and runs deep enough underground to not freeze.

This line runs back to the house and enters the pressure switch/indicator assembly and the pressure tank.

From there it goes to the house water main.

pressure tank



well pressure tank



The pressure tank has a rubber bladder with air that compresses to keep constant pressure in the waterlines all the time.

spigot



It's a good idea to have at least one big spigot that connects directly to the water mainline. This gives a lot of pressure. You can connect directly off the water-well mainline without hurting overall pressure.

water-well top of page









footer for water-well page